Eating Russian Food in Detroit by Ruth Paget
Whenever my mother and I went shopping at Detroit’s Renaissance Center on the riverfront, we would first go to lunch at Olga’s Kitchen located in the RenCen.
We took the tourist trolley, which stopped right outside our apartment building on Washington Boulevard. (The current monorail system was just being built.) The trolley was warm in icy weather and protected us from potential falls. The trolley turned left onto Jefferson Avenue at the end of Washington Boulevard and brought us to the entrance of the five-towered Renaissance Center designed by architect John Portman.
From the warm trolley, my mom and I would go to Olga’s Kitchen for Russian-American food. Olga’s was famous for their thick and large blini pancakes wrapped around Detroit fillings like Greek gyros and Arab schwarma.
My mother and I ordered gyros blinis, which came with garlicky yogurt sauce, pickled slices of white and red onion, and tomatoes. A toothpick held this delicious combo together. The blini came with a side salad, French fries, and a drink. Olga’s Kitchen provided a tonic lunch before setting out for an afternoon of shopping.
Our first stop was Winkelman’s Clothing Store. My mother was going to inspect the discounted designer clothing I had been making payments on as layaway purchases. She would make the final the final payment, if the deal were a good one. If not, she would get money back and apply it to other layaway deals. She would also look through the store merchandise for designer deals herself, too.
From Winkelman’s we would go to the RenCen’s crystal boutique. We both liked Waterford relish trays and Baccarat ship’s decanters. The salesman gave us a corporate gift brochure when she found out my mother worked at the Free Press. (Mom had asked about discounts on large order purchases to see if she could lower the price of the items on sale.)
Our last stop on our RenCen shopping trips would be the Godiva Chocolate Boutique. My mom would buy a pound of chocolate and made sure we got some samples to taste before making our purchase.
We took the trolley home with our purchases. I felt like a junior boyar, an elite Russian merchant who dealt with mink coats and caviar and who dined on Beef Stroganoff, with our bags of nice purchases.
For more information on authentic Russian food, readers might like the book entitled Classic Russian Cooking: Elena Molokhovets’ A Gift to Young Housewives translated by Joyce Toomre (published by Indiana University Press).
There is an easy recipe for making blini pancakes topped with smoked salmon, sour cream, and caviar in the book Hors d’oeuvres and Appetizers (Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Library) by Chuck Williams and the Scotto Sisters.
By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France
