Cannery Row for New Year’s by Ruth Paget
Our family visits Cannery Row in Monterey, California to honor both John Steinbeck and Ed Ricketts. Steinbeck wrote the book Cannery Row that made the area famous. Ed Ricketts, Steinbeck’s friend and the character “Doc” in Cannery Row, is my fellow alumni from the University of Chicago, who wrote Between Pacific Tides with tide pools as a main character.
The influence of both writers can be felt at the Chart House Restaurant on Cannery Row, which sits above the ocean with an excellent view of the kelp forest offshore in a dinner-only bar-restaurant, part of the nationwide Landry Restaurant Group.
As you order your meal, you can watch sea otters twirling in the surf, dolphins diving in arches, white egrets hopping from kelp top to kelp top, black cormorant birds swimming in circles dodging waves, brown pelicans flying in lines and sometimes swooping down to snag a fish, and pudgy, tan-bodied Western gulls flitting about noisy white seagulls.
It is easy to see why Ed Ricketts wrote about the ecosystem of the Monterey Bay here, and why it is worth reserving a window seat. The tiered seating in the restaurant, though, makes every seat a good one for bird watching.
On our latest outing to the Chart House to celebrate December birthdays, I ordered kimchi calamari, which comes with a sticky, mayonnaise-like sauce that is not too spicy. My main dish was butterflied and deep-fried coconut-mango shrimp followed by coffee ice cream as dessert made without sugar. My husband Laurent and daughter Florence both ordered Monterey’s famous clam chowder, prime rib, and mango sorbet as dessert.
Everything tasted great in the packed restaurant, which is a rave review all by itself. (Note – Landry has a loyalty card point program that works at all its restaurants. Ask the waiter about it. You can sign up online.)
That was the birthday meal celebration. My husband Laurent and I came back for New Year’s Eve. Laurent ordered clam chowder while I had Caesar Salad with shaved Parmesan for starters. For our main dish, we both had broiled sea bas with a lobster Hollandaise sauce followed by Florida’s famous, tangy key lime pie for dessert.
Our brisk walk in the salty air of Cannery Row from one end to the other took us past the restaurants for kids and teens like Louis Linguine, Gharardelli’s Chocolate Shop, Bubba Gumps, and Lalla Lounge. I am sure the women who worked in the sardine factories that Steinbeck made famous would love it that their grandchildren and great-grandchildren can eat tony restaurants like those in LA or San Francisco on vacation.
When we reached the Clement Hotel (part of the InterContinental Hotel Group) near the Monterey Bay Aquarium where we were staying, we opened the window in our room and fell asleep to the rhythmic sounds of waves crashing on the shore while Florence and her friends may have been dancing at Sly McFly’s Night Club nearby.
On New Year’s Day, Laurent and I ate in the hotel’s C Restaurant. The C is reliably great and serves posh kopi luwak coffee from Indonesia (priced accordingly). I could have just drunk that for breakfast, but ordered delicious eggs benedict and fried potatoes to go with it. Laurent ate an all-American breakfast of eggs over easy, bacon, fried potatoes, and rye toast breakfast with his kopi luwak coffee. From our window seat on the ocean, we could see seagulls circling.
After breakfast, we went to Florence’s suite and drank some sparkling white wine for the New Year from De Tierra Winery in Monterey County. One of her friends proudly works at De Tierra – they are award winners.
Laurent and I got the car from valet parking and drove home along the coast in Pacific Grove. Pacific Grove was teeming with people on a sunny New Year’s Day with glistening lapis lazuli water. I thought of John Steinbeck and Ed Rickett’s climbing on the rocks there and wading in tide pools looking for cute creatures from the deep.
By Ruth Paget, author Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France
