Introducing Korean Food to Juilliard Graduate Florence Paget by Savvy Mom Ruth Paget
Once my family had been to Orient Express in Seaside (California) and liked the barbecued beef called bulgogi and the array of little dishes called pan ch’an of sour vegetables flavored with sesame oil, I wanted to take my daughter Florence out for some more Korean food as an early dinner meal after picking her up from school.
My
husband worked late hours at the time, so I treated early dinners with Florence
as a cultural field trip when we went to ethnic restaurants.
I
did some more background reading on Korean cuisine and called my editor at The
Monterey County Weekly (Circulation: 200,000).
I
asked my editor, if I could review the Hidden Korea Restaurant in Marina to
introduce Monterey County residents to some other restaurants that serve Korean
foods in the County.
The
editor agreed to let me review the restaurant for that reason. My review follows:
Hidden Korea: Marina’s
New Korea Restaurant is off the Beaten Path, but Worth a Few Wrong Turns
The
New Korea Restaurant in Marina is tough to find. But, its elusive location has not kept
customers away for the past thirty years.
Word-of-mouth brings in most diners.
My
husband’s Korean colleagues recommended it.
I immediately liked the place when I walked in and saw the wood tables
and Korean script poetry on the walls.
We
started our meal with what I dubbed a Korean pizza: the haemul pajon pancake, containing scallions and seafood. The rice flour used to make haemul pajon gives it a chewy texture.
Sesame
oil and soy sauce give the pancake a savory taste that accents the seafood
flavors.
Golden
crust covered in the haemul pajon ,
which was cut into squares for easy dipping in soy sauce. I thought the Korean pancake was delicious. Like pizza, this dish can easily serve as a
main meal for two.
My
husband Laurent alternated eating between the two main dishes he ordered:
-maemal soondubu and bulgogi
-the
spicy, dark red soup that no doubt gets its kick from the addition of gochu jang : Korean hot chili paste made
from melted glutinous rice, soybean cake, red hot chili, and salt among other
items.
Laurent
stifled a few snuffles as he ate. He
said the soup was delicious as his cheeks turned pink.
He
especially liked the pieces of tobu (Korean
tofu). Fresh mussels, octopus, and
shrimp made up of the seafood contingent in his soup, but they were more like
condiments than the main ingredient.
The
thin filets of beef were very tender and some of the best that I have tasted on
the Peninsula. Every cook has his or her
own secret for this dish, but the meat typically marinated in a mixture of soy
sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, and sugar before getting broiled.
The
meat comes steaming to the table on top of brown onions.
Korea
is unique in East Asia for its beef consumption; the Chinese favor pork and the
Japanese favor fish. In the 13th
century, Ghenghis Khan’s Mongol hordes overran the Korean peninsula and brought
their taste for beef with them.
Koreans
are picky about their meat looking for all cuts to liven up to the reputation
of the beef on Korea’s southern island of Cheju.
With
their country surrounded by water on three sides, Koreans have always featured
fish and seafood in their cuisine. My
main entrée, nakji bokum, octopus
stir-fry, was one such dish.
This
dish is a spicy mixture with lots of hot, green peppers, so the faint of spicy
foods should beware.
Spicy
gochu jang paste goes into the
stir-fry along with chili powder, sesame oil, strips of red peppers, carrot
ovals, and onions.
I
loved the hot spicy taste with the chewy octopus. Some of the thinner tentacles were a little
tough, but that happens when you cook thin and thick pieces together.
My
favorite part of a Korean meal is the mixture of side dishes called pan
ch’an. Usually they consist of pickled
vegetables seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil called haemul.
I
liked the kimchi, which left a nice
tingle in my mouth as did the cucumber kimchi. The cucumber kimchi had a slight fish flavor to it. Several Korean cookbooks note that the
oysters used to season kimchi dissolve,
leaving only their briny tang.
The
chilis and chili powder that seem so typically Korean have not always been part
of Korean cooking. Pickled cabbage has
been around for 4,000 years.
Chilies,
an American agricultural product, entered Korea beginning in 1592 according to
food historian and cookbook author Copeland Marks in his book The
Korean Kitchen: Classic Recipes from the Land of the Morning Sun.
It
was during a seven-year war between Japan and Korea that Portuguese Catholic
priests, who were accompanying the Japanese troops, took the chili seeds and/or
plants to Korea.
The
Portuguese got the plants from the Spanish, who had brought them from Central
America to Europe. Koreans adopted the
chilies just like the Italians adopted the American tomato.
We
drank Korean barley-corn tea with our meal, which is different from black and
green teas. The Koreans prefer
decaffeinated brew made by boiling barley and corn and, then, straining the
liquid.
The
tea soothed our tongues from the spicy foods.
I felt like picking some up in a Korean grocery store after we left this
restaurant that definitely deserves a detour.
End
of Article
Since
I wrote that article, a very good cookbook on Korean food has been published
called Growing up in a Korean Kitchen by Hi Soo Shin.
Before
going to a Korean restaurant now, I would recommend reading that book, so you
would know what is on the menu.
By
Ruth Paget, Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France
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