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Friday, September 4, 2015

Visiting the Dobree Museum in Nantes (France) with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget


Visiting the Dobree Museum in Nantes (France) with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget


One of the most interesting museums in Nantes, France is the Dobrée Museum.  The Museum houses the collection of Thomas Dobrée, who earned his fortune in the slave and sugar trade in the nineteenth century.

There were many merchants in Nantes who had shares in “ebony wood” as the slaves were described.  The merchants, who earned their profits from the slave trade and New World products, were called “armateurs”.  The luxurious apartments and homes of the armateurs make Nantes look elegant to this day.

Dobrée was particularly rich and had his own house and not an apartment.  His family was very international.  On his maternal side, his ancestors came from Guernsey and Germany.

My favorite piece in his collection was a thirteenth century reliquary chest from the Limousin that almost looks cloisonné, but it was really wood, stamped leather, gold, and colored glass.

Most of the work in the collection was from the Middle Ages.  A Flemish holy family triptych from the sixteenth century also caught my eye.  Flemish figures have such gentle gestures in paintings.  I never realized that carved that carved ivories of religious scenes were painted until I saw a sixteenth century diptych at the Dobrée Museum, featuring the Madonna on one side and a crucified Christ on the other.

The Museum’s real treasure is Anne de Bretagne’s gold, heart-shaped reliquary from 1514, topped with a crown signifying that she was Queen of France.

I was happy to be fluent in French in this lovely Museum, because French was the only language on the exhibit labels.  This reminded me of American museums, which only give information in English.  Both countries assume that you will read their languages when seeking out their art treasures.

By Ruth Paget, Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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