Eating an Ancient Roman Meal with Juilliard Graduate Florence Paget and Savvy Mom Ruth Paget
The sentence “Elegant and easy recipes from history’s first gourmet” convinced me to make a meal using recipes from the first century Roman cookbook by Apicius called De Re Coquineria.
Apicius’ cookbook was updated by author John Edwards in his
book Roman Cookery with items such as
American measures. According to Edwards
there were three foodies named Apicius in ancient Rome. Apicius was a name akin to “Miss Manners.
My ancient Roman meal plan would support my daughter Florence’s study of ancient Rome at her Waldorf School.
My ancient Roman meal plan would support my daughter Florence’s study of ancient Rome at her Waldorf School.
I announced my meal project to Florence on the way home from
school in the car.
“You’re not doing one of those educational meals again,”
Florence practically wailed.
“Don’t worry. You’ll
like it,” I said despite remembering some of my ethnic first-try foods like
gummy tagliatelle and sludgy rice.
“I’m making artichokes and chicken,” I said without elaborating on the sweet, tart, savory, and minty flavor combinations used in some of the dishes. I let the subject drop and discreetly gathered the ingredients.
When the weekend rolled around, I told my family that I was
making steamed artichokes, sautéed chicken, and stewed peaches without
mentioning the Roman part. Artichokes
unlike tomatoes appeared on Roman tables from the beginnings of time. (Tomatoes came from the Americas.)
The artichokes were steamed with vegetable stock to which I
added black pepper (native to the Malabar Coast of India and coming to Rome
through its Levantine possessions in modern-day Syria), cumin (coming Egypt,
another Roman colony), and olive oil.
My husband Laurent, Florence, and I gathered around a plate
of the cooled artichokes. We peeled off
the leaves and dunked the edible leaf bases into olive oil and vinegar
dressing. The cumin flavor made the
artichokes taste almost like meat. I
learned that black pepper can give foods a little zing just by using it in the
water to steam something.
“These artichokes are really good,” Florence said, which
encouraged me to reveal their source.
“They’re Roman artichokes,” I nonchalantly added. Florence and Laurent looked at each other
with better-eat-what’s-good-now glances.
“Maybe Caesar ate artichokes like these,” I ventured,
warming up to my food-as-history lesson.
“Caesar was too busy fighting to eat good food,” Florence
remarked.
“It’s so boring to learn about fighting,” she
continued. She went on to tell us about
Caesar and the Gauls, Caesar and Pompey, and Caesar and Cleopatra. She certainly had retained a lot about her
boring school subject.
I offered some more artichokes to my family. With America’s artichoke capital,
Castroville, nearby, we could eat these almost everyday.
I then prepared chicken by adding grounds herbs and spices
to a saucepan of chicken stock flavored with red wine vinegar, chopped dates,
honey, and olive oil. I brought the
chicken to the table and brought up the topic of Rome again.
“Have you been studying the Aeneid?” I asked.
“That story is so sad when Aeneas leaves Queen Dido,”
Florence said.
“Aeneas had to leave Queen Dido and Carthage to found Rome,”
I told her.
“Why didn’t he just stay with the woman he loved,” my young
Californian asked.
“Because he had to serve his people. Part of being Roman is doing things for the
good of others even when you want to do something differently. It’s a lot like being a parent sometimes,” I
said and smiled at Florence.
“Will you show me how to make the Roman chicken?” she asked.
“Of course,” I said.
I smiled again and wondered if Roman matrons with houses
full of servants got to show their daughters how to cook.
By Ruth Paget - Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France
Click here for: Ruth Paget's Amazon Books
Click here for: Ruth Paget's Amazon Books
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