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Thursday, March 19, 2015

Visiting the Louvre's Egyptian Galleries in Paris (France) with Juilliard Graduate Florence Paget and Savvy Mom Ruth Paget




Visiting the Louvre's Egyptian Galleries in Paris (France) with Juilliard Graduate Florence Paget and Savvy Mom Ruth Paget



My husband and I took our daughter Florence on a trip to France when she was in the fifth grade.  She had been studying ancient Egypt in school, and we asked one of the family cousins who was a retired school teacher to take us on a tour of the Louvre’s Egyptian collection.

Laurent’s teacher cousin had taught the history of ancient Egypt to middle school students in Paris and had brought many classes to the Louvre.  She had a set tour and points to cover, which we did at an American pace however.  I knew she was accustomed to students who walk in a line like those you can see pictured in Ludwig Bemelman’s Madeleine picture books.

The entire American family stopped to ask questions about works that interested us during our lecture.  We walked around exhibits and stooped down and stood up on our tiptoes to get better views of the artwork.  Florence made commentaries, too, which children are not supposed to do in France.

When she was shown canopic jars, she asked, “What goes in those?” which translator mom asked teacher cousin.

“Viscera such as the hearts and lungs of the dead pharaohs,” was teacher cousin’s reply.

“Gross.  That’s nasty,” was Florence’s loud reply.

We examined the writing on all the exhibits we saw to determine which kind of Egyptian writing it was.  Florence had learned to draw hieroglyphs at school, but within hieroglyphic writing there are variations.  We looked for the highly wrought artistic hieroglyphs that appeared on religious art, stylized cursive hieroglyphs that captured the essence of the form, and angular hieratic hieroglyphs used for everyday communication. 

Teacher cousin asked, “What kind of school does Florence go to?”

I knew my answer would be unpopular when I said, “Waldorf.”

I could almost hear teacher cousin saying to herself, “German schools set up by an Austrian.”

I loved France, but I knew that the culture of Austria’s Habsburg Empire was perpetuated with German teaching methods through Waldorf.  The Habsburg Empire was multilingual and multicultural; it had lessons for intercultural relations and education in the United States I thought. 

I loved Waldorf’s arts curriculum for which it is famous, but the social studies and foreign language curriculum for children are what made me want Florence attend this school.  I was very happy that Florence could distinguish among different types of hieroglyphics, for example.  I knew she would be able to identify Chinese, Japanese, and Korean writing with no problem in the future, too.

Aside from the hieroglyphics, Florence’s favorite artworks in the Louvre’s Egyptian galleries were the papyrus pages from the Egyptian Book of the Dead.  Florence’s class had written and drawn pages from this book in class.  The afterlife is when life really started for the Egyptians, so it was not a morbid topic for the class to study.

We stood in front of one Book of the Dead text, and Florence showed teacher cousin what she knew:

“Anubis, who has the jackal head, leads the dead to Osiris for judgment by the Goddess Maat.”

“Where’s Maat?” I asked.

“She’s a feather here,” Florence responded.

After viewing this Book of the Dead page, Florence let teacher cousin finish our Egyptian gallery tour uninterrupted. 

Afterwards we ate at the international food court, which is always crowded.  You have to order, get your food, and then wait for a table to be vacated before sitting down.  Laurent and Florence ate Mexican food; I had a Lebanese sampler plate; and teacher cousin ate French.  I hope teacher cousin had fun with her Americans in the Egyptian collection.

By Ruth Paget - Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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