Japanese Comfort Foods by Ruth Paget

Japanese Comfort Food by Ruth Paget 

When I lived in Japan as an exchange student, my Japanese host mom made food straight out of Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art. 

I took for granted nutritious and economical meals such as: 

-onigiri – rice triangles with pickled plums in the center and held together by a strip of nori seaweed  

-rolled Japanese omelets with snipped chives or green onions and soy sauce 

-okonomiyaki – shredded cabbage and carrot pancakes made with egg and topped with sprinkled soy sauce and lines of mayonnaise 

Now that I am older, I still like these items but am learning Japanese comfort food secrets by watching Japanese restaurant videos on www.youtube.com (subject Japanese cuisine) to see how the Japanese eat mounds of hearty food. 

One dish of curry gravy goodness is tonkotsu udon, an udon noodle soup with sliced, deep-fried pork cutlet on top of the noodles. The pork cutlet is topped off with an omelet. The omelet is covered in curry gravy. Yummy stuff on a cold day. 

After watching several Japanese restaurant videos, I have noticed that refried rice or noodles can take the place of noodle soup as a base for other items to be placed on top of them. 

I have set up the following general recipe guide for making Japanese bowl meals: 

*Base – Choose 1 

-plain rice 

-refried rice 

-noodles without soup 

-udon noodle soup 

*Middle layer – choose 1 or 2 

-sliced deep-fried pork cutlet 

-omelet 

*Topping

-stir-fried vegetables 

-omelet -curry sauce 

-tempura vegetables, seafood, or meat 

Refried rice is often made with egg, carrots, and mushrooms. 

Stir-fried vegetables are often made with garlic, onion, cabbage, bean sprouts, and mushrooms. 

Composed Japanese bowl meals like these are delicious, nutritious, and not as expensive to make as you would think. These Japanese comfort foods might appeal to Americans who would like to save money. 

By Ruth Paget, author Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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The Flavorful Japanese Grill by Ruth Paget

The Flavorful Japanese Grill by Ruth Paget 

Avid grillers might enjoy the novel flavor combinations in The Japanese Grill: From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat. Salty, sweet flavors along with those that are spicy to fiery hot add zest to grilled foods for cooks who want to travel from the backyard. 

Ono and Salat write that three basic marinades flavor meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetables. These marinades follow and give a good idea for what Japanese grilled foods taste like: 

1-garlic-soy sauce for all red meat – made of soy sauce, garlic, olive oil, and black pepper 

2-Yuzu kosho marinade – made of fiery chilies, salt, tangy yuzu citrus fruit and its juice, soy sauce, and olive oil 

3-All-purposed vegetable marinade  

One of the book’s best pieces of advice for yakitori (chicken) grilling Ono and Salat write that they grill the chicken partway. Then, they coat the chicken with sauce and finish grilling it. The authors give recipes for sauces, tare, along with advice on how to best skewer chicken for even cooking. 

Ono and Salat list pantry items including some that might be unfamiliar such as the following: 

-mirin – sweet wine 

-miso – fermented soybean paste 

-tanbanjan – fiery chili paste 

-wasabi – horseradish 

-sansho – relative of Chinese Sichuan pepper 

-shichimi togarashi – ground chili, sesame, mustard, and citrus among others 

Ono and Salat give recipes for side dishes that might interest grillers looking for refreshing vegetable dishes. Recipes of interest include: 

 -green cabbage salad with carrot-ginger vinaigrette 

-daikon radish salad with dried tiny shrimp 

-spinach with ground sesame 

A final very useful item in this book is the list of pantry ingredients with large, Japanese characters for the item to assist with in-store shopping. 

Avid grillers and students of Japanese language and culture all can find something of interest in The Japanese Grill: From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat.

By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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The Japanese Noodle Lunch by Ruth Paget

Japanese Noodle Lunch by Ruth Paget 

With Ramen Made Simple: A Step-by-Step Guide by Christ Toy and online ingredients (if you cannot obtain the ingredients locally), it is possible to make great ramen at home with the many recipes in Toy’s book. 

Toy begins his guide by telling readers that Chinese travelers brought wheat noodles to Japan in the 1800s and called them shina or chuka soba. The Japanese word ramen comes from la mien in Chinese, meaning noodles. (Chinese lo mein and chow mein are both noodle dishes that Americans might be more familiar with.) 

Toy gives the following formula for building a bowl of ramen:  

1-broth 

2-tare sauce 

3-noodles 

4-toppings 

The first building block of ramen is broth. 

There are 5 different broth flavors: 

1 - shio – salt-based broth 

2 – shoyu – soy-sauce based broth 

3 – miso – fermented soybean broth 

4 – tonkotsu – broth made from boiling bones 

5 – kare – curry broth 

The second ingredient for making a ramen soup is the concentrated tare sauce. You place the tare sauce in the bottom of the ramen bowl before adding the other ingredients. 

There are 4 tare sauce types not to be confused with broth types: 

1 – shio tare – salt based sauce 

2 – shoyu tare – soy sauce based sauce 

3 – miso tare – fermented soybean based sauce with seasonings of sweet mirin wine, ginger, and red pepper added 

4 – kare tare – curry based sauce 

The third ingredient that goes into ramen is wheat noodles. The wheat noodles are eggless and made with flour, salt, and kansui (an alkaline water). Ramen noodles may be thin, thick, straight, or wavy. 

The final ingredients for the ramen noodles are the toppings. There are many, but some of the most common follow: 

-ajitama eggs – hard-boiled eggs that have been marinated in sweet mirin wine and soy sauce overnight 

-chashu pork – braised or baked pork marinated in soy sauce and brown sugar 

-kamaboko (naruto) – sliced, processed fish cakes that have been steamed and refrigerated 

I was happy to find a recipe for a ramen I ate as a high school exchange student in Japan: kitakata ramen 

Kitakata ramen comes from central Japan. Its ingredients follow: 

-shoyu tare 

-tonkotsu pork broth 

-udon noodles 

-chashu pork 

-kamaboko fish cake 

-menma bamboo shoots 

-scallions 

-chopped and dried nori seaweed 

To make delicious Japanese noodles at home, let Ramen Made Simple: A Step-by-Step Guide by Christ Toy be your reference book. 

By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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Light Lunch Japan by Ruth Paget

Light Lunch Japan by Ruth Paget 

Reading through Japan: From the Source published by Lonely Planet brought back memories to me of being an exchange student in Japan, working with Japanese clients in Chicago and Paris (France), presenting Japanese culture programs for teens as part of summer reading in Monterey County California, and reviewing Asian restaurants for the Monterey County Weekly newspaper. 

I like the following recipes as introductions to Japanese cuisine: 

p.183 – Okanomiyaki (Savory Pancakes)  

-flour 

-shredded cabbage 

-bean sprouts 

-pork belly (bacon) 

-egg 

I first ate this at the Gion Matsuri (Gion Festival) in Kyoto after walking between huge floats with taiko drummers playing. My host family took me to a restaurant where these pancakes were prepared on a tabletop grill. The salty soy sauce syrup tasted great in the sultry heat. 

p.14 – Iga-Menchi (Squid Croquettes) - Shrimp could be a substitute for squid 

-chopped squid 

-cabbage 

-onions 

-carrot 

-egg 

-flour 

-sake 

-oil for frying 

p.106 – Tonkatsu (Deep-fried Breaded Pork) 

-flour 

-egg 

-pork loin 

-bread crumbs 

-cabbage and tomato to serve 

p.206 – Torinabe (Chicken and Vegetable Hotpot) 

-chicken 

-soy 

-mirin wine 

-Chinese cabbage 

-daikon (white radish) 

-chicken 

-shitake mushrooms 

-tofu 

-white rice 

-egg 

p.198 Kamata Udon (Wheat Noodles with Egg) 

 -udon noodles 

-eggs 

-light soy sauce 

-chives 

If you want to try making Japanese food that is not sushi, Japan: From the Source published by Lonely Planet might interest you. 

By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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The Bento Advantage Game: Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905) by Ruth Paget

The Bento Advantage Game:  Russo-Japanese War (1904 – 1905) – Japan Victorious – Created by Ruth Paget

Objective:

Analyze the role of food in the Russo-Japanese War and Draw from its Lessons

Historical Background:

Japan was the first Asian power to defeat a European power in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904 – 1905 according to the Encyclopedia Britannica.

Russia had moved into Siberia, but still needed seaports at this time.  Russia invaded northeastern China for seaports, but then had to deal with Japan, an equally expansionist country.

Japan defeated Russia on land in northeastern China and on sea.  This victory of a small island nation against the vast Russian Empire was extraordinary.  The victory established Japan as an imperial power and probably gave the nation confidence to attack the United States at Pearl Harbor decades later to begin World War II in the Pacific.

History books deal with strategy, casualties, deaths, and sometimes weather.  In this game, I would like players to analyze the role of food to see if it might have been a decisive factor in the Japanese victory over Russia.

Generals have the responsibility for making sure troops and their families are fed to make defensive forces strong and free of disease for readiness and morale.  Spoiled food, for instance, can spread disease and destabilize troops.

Generals also have to think about food procurement if fighting in foreign lands.  Food shipped from the homeland might spoil in transport.  Eating food available locally has a better chance of not being spoiled.

Both Japanese and Russian cuisines have dishes that resemble Chinese ones or that use ingredients available in China.

What may have made the difference in the Russo-Japanese War is the bento box lunch – a sanitary and efficient way of serving large numbers of room temperature meals made using local ingredients found in China.

Level 1: A Sample Bento Box Lunch

Bentos are served at room temperature, which saves money for storage.  If metal bentos with lids and metal chopsticks are used, you could make a bento with the following ingredients:

-1/2 bento box full of cooked rice

-steamed vegetables such as broccoli divide the rice from the rest of bento contents.  Whole cherry tomatoes could be placed among the broccoli as well.

-pickled vegetables take up ¼ of the bento.  Pickled plums (umeboshi) and pickled ginger would be nice additions to pickled cucumbers and pickled cabbage

-the savory addition – ¼ of the box could be slices of rolled omelet with vegetables that are doused with oyster sauce, soy sauce, or tahini.  Canned fish such as whole sardines or mackerel sections could also be part of the savory section. 

Level 2: Learn about Japanese Food

The bento books below describe modern bentos, both Japanese and Western while the other Japanese food books provide ideas for food that could go in a bento:

-Bento for Beginners: 60 Recipes for Easy Bento Box Lunches by Chika Ravitch

-The Just Bento Cookbook: Everyday Lunches to Go by Makiko Itoh

Other Japanese food books with dishes borrowed from China in some cases are listed below:

-The Complete Tassajara Cookbook:  Recipes, Techniques, and Reflections from the Famed Zen Kitchen:  Over 300 Vegetarian Recipes by Edward Espe Brown

-Japan: The Cookbook by Nancy Singleton Hichisu

-Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art by Shizuo Tsuji

-The Japanese Grill:  From Classic Yakitori to Steak, Seafood, and Vegetables by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat

-Japanese Soul Cooking: Ramen, Tonkatsu, Tempura, and More from the Streets and Kitchens of Tokyo and Beyond by Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat

-Mastering the Art of Japanese Home Cooking by Masaharu Morimoto

-Ramen Obsession:  The Ultimate Bible for Mastering Japanese Ramen by Naomi Imatome-Yun and Robin Donovan

-Sushi Cookbook for Beginners by Kirsten Barton

-Tokyo Cult Recipes by Maori Murata

-Washoku:  Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen by Elizabeth Andoh

Level 2: Learn about Russian Food

Much of Russia is frozen tundra in winter yet they can feed their people when logistics for food delivery function well.  The following books reflect a cuisine created in and for harsh winter conditions:

-Classic Russian Cooking:  A Gift to Young Housewives by Elena Molokhovets

-Festive Ukrainian Cooking by Marta Pisetska Farley

Russians are also Orthodox Christians and celebrate their holidays with food in similar fashion to the Ukrainians.

-The Food and Cooking of Russia:  Includes more than 200 Recipes by Lesley Chamberlain

-The Russian Heritage Cookbook:  A Culinary Tradition Preserved in over 400 Authentic Recipes by Lynn Visson

Level 3: Learn about Chinese Food

-All Under Heaven:  Recipes from the 35 Cuisines of China by Carolyn Phillips

-China:  The Cookbook by Kei Lum Chan and Diora Fong Chan

-The Chinese Kitchen Garden: Growing Techniques and Family Recipes from a Classic Cuisine by Wendy Kiang-Spray

-Chinese Street Food by Howie Southworth

-Chinese Takeout Cookbook by Lina Chang

-Complete Chinese Cookbook by Ken Hom

-Cooking South of the Clouds:  Recipes and Stories from China’s Yunnan Province by Georgia Freedman

-The Dim Sum Field Guide by Carolyn Phillips

-The Essential Wok Cookbook by Naomi Imatome-Yun

-Every Grain of Rice: Simple Chinese Home Cooking by Fuschia Dunlop

-Fragrant Harbor Taste: The New Chinese Cooking by Ken Hom

-The Joy of Chinese Cooking by Doreen Yen Hung Fren

-Land of Fish and Rice:  Recipes from the Culinary Heart of China by Fuchsia Dunlop

-Land of Plenty by Fuschia Dunlp

-Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo

-The New Classic Chinese Cookbook by Mai Leung

-Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees:  Essential Techniques of Authentic Chinese Cooking by Kian Lam Kho

-Revolutionary Chinese Cookbook:  Recipes from Hunan Province by Fuchsia Dunlop

Level 4: Identify Russian Foods Similar to Chinese Foods

Level 5: Identify Japanese Foods Similar to Chinese Foods

Level 6: Create a Bento that Reflects Your Heritage

-Read You Eat What You Are: People, Culture, and Food Traditions by Thelma Barer-Stein, PhD to set up a bento that meets dietary needs

Level 7: Make a Japanese Bento

Level 8: Make a Chinese Bento

Level 9: Make a Russian Bento

Level 10: View Food as Communication

-Read The Food of China by E. N. Anderson, paying close attention to the food as communication chapter

-Read Japanese Society by Chie Nakane

Think of what the bento symbolizes and write this up in a personal journal along with the bento menus you created

Level 11: Consider Resource Management

Think of how to maximize your food resources at home to achieve no-waste status, which also allows you to better manage your food bill.

Enjoy learning about bentos, Japanese food, Chinese food, and Russian food.

Bento Created by Ruth Paget, author Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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Hearth-Side Sushi: Robata Grill and Sake Bar - Part 2 - Reviewed by Savvy Mom Ruth Paget

Hearth-Side Sushi: Robata Grill and Sake Bar – Part 2 – Reviewed by Savvy Mom Ruth Paget

A fresh green leaf along with tender lemon slices decorated the dish of octopus sashimi that I ordered.  I shared the octopus sashimi with our family friend.  We both agreed that it was chewy without being tough.

I could taste the ocean in the octopus slices.  I am wary of fresh octopus, though, since my first try of it left a sucker attached to my lip; I like fresh food, but not that fresh.

Sashimi is raw fish without rice.  It can serve as a prelude to sushi, which is raw fish with rice and wasabi and often nori, a black-green seaweed sheet.  California rolls, by the way, are usually cooked fish presented like sushi rolls.

I prefer Japanese omelets called tamago to sushi however.  My Japanese host mother made tamago for me when I was an exchange student in Japan.  (The owner of the restaurant came from the same town where I stayed in Japan I later found out.)

The flavor of tamago omelets disconcerts most Americans to begin with, because sugar goes into the omelet’s preparation.  The flavor of the rolled omelet I ate had rice inside and nori seaweed outside reminded me of salty-sweet French toast.  I liked this treat dunked in soy sauce without green horseradish wasabi.

Laurent ate grilled sand dabs with a Sapporo beer while I sampled a Kirin beer that seems to go well with sweet Japanese sauces.

A green tea ice cream put the finish on our lovely meal.

It was easy to say, “Thank you.  We have eaten well,” when we left.

By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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Hearth-Side Sushi: Robata Grill and Sake Bar - Part 1 - Reviewed by Savvy Mom Ruth Paget

Hearth-Side Sushi: Robata Grill and Sake Bar - Part 1 - Reviewed by Savvy Mom Ruth Paget

Robata is the sort of restaurant that I described to my daughter Florence as a little girl as “fancy” or “touristy, but in a good way.” 

I wanted people in Monterey County to know how fortunate they were to have a real Japanese-style inn restaurant in the area located conveniently off Highway 1 with lots of parking in Carmel, California.

I queried my editors at The Monterey County Weekly (Circulation: 200,000) about doing a review on Robata.  I told them in my query that going to Robata in Carmel was like taking a trip to Japan without having to leave Monterey County.

I think The Weekly editors just liked listening to my pitches sometimes.  They gave me the Robata assignment for the local restaurant that serves locals and tourists alike, which follows in modified form:

Hearth-Side Sushi: Robata Grill and Sake Bar

“Honored guests are here,” says Robata’s owner in Japanese that is loud enough for her staff to hear, as she seats patrons at their tables.  The effect is to make the Japanese surroundings even more inviting in a restaurant whose name means “fireside.”

Fireside dining is always available on Robata’s patio, but when we visited, my husband Laurent, family friend, and I chose to eat in the cozy indoors with dark woodwork, rice paper covering the windows, and hanging red lanterns.

Laurent picked up on the Japanese genius for design by noticing how one table would be covered with a blue tablecloth while the table next to it was covered with two blue cloth napkins laid out to look like diamonds.  Japanese music played softly.

Robata’s menu reflects the steakhouse and sushi tradition that became popular in the US due to the high quality of Kobe beef and various kinds of sushi that are hard to obtain in the US.

Laurent’s appetizer, called kushiyaki, was a filet mignon kebab with teriyaki sauce and qualifies as a Japanese steakhouse invention.  Green peppers separated the tender, grilled chunks of meat that the chef glazed with a sauce made of soy sauce, sugar, and sweet rice wine.

Sesame seeds decorated the kebabs along with wisps of fresh ginger, adding a lively flavor to this combination.  The kushiyaki came on a dark green ceramic dish with burgundy-colored flowers, which contrasted nicely with the color of the peppers.

End of Part 1.

To be continued.

By Ruth Paget, author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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