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Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Visiting France's Stonehenge at Carnac and Quiberon Bay Resort in Brittany with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget


Visiting France's Stonehenge at Carnac and Quiberon Bay Resort in Brittany with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget


From Nantes, we drove out to Carnac located in the Morbihan département.  Three major Neolithic sites make up what are called the Carnac Alignments in this département of Brittany.

“High season” in the summer means that even though we arrived at 9 am, all the tickets for a tour were sold out until the 11:30 am tour and those were going fast.  There would then be a lunch break before the next tours. 

We decided to pass on a guided tour and drove along the road, which links all three Neolithic sites, with our Celtic music playing.  The Bagad de Lann Bihouë music we listened to while driving made the ride cheerful.

According to The Carnac Alignments: Neolithic Temples by Jean-Pierre Mohen, the Carnac monoliths were erected 6,000 years ago by men and women who used them between the fifth and third millennium BCE.  The Neolithic period witnessed the dramatic change from a hunting and gathering culture to one that relied on agriculture according to H.W. Janson in his book History of Art. 

Mohen writes that there are 3,000 monoliths at Carnac.  Most of these monoliths are menhirs that stand upright.  The menhirs are not as tall as those at Stonehenge, but their regularity of spacing illustrates how Neolithic man may have sought to create order not only through a reliable food source, but also through religion.

All three of the Neolithic sites we drove by have fences around them now, but it is easy to see the sites of Kerlescan, Kermario, and Le Ménec from the car.  From Carnac we drove to the yachting town of La Trinité-sur-Mer.  

La Trinité is a harbor with 1,200 docking slots for yachts.  It has all the amenities to serve a yachting population such as clothing boutiques, a weekly market, a merry-go-round for children, and many restaurants along the harbor front.  A catamaran that towered over the yachts was in the harbor; it was made to ride ocean swells in the Atlantic and elsewhere.

We ate steamed mussels and fries for lunch and enjoyed looking at yachts sailing in the open sea.  After lunch, we continued along with the Bagad de Lann  Bihouë music playing to the Quiberon Isthmus.  The sun beat down on us, but the fresh ocean breeze cut down the heat.  We could see the large island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer in the near distance.

On the way back to Nantes, I admired the Breton homes with granite inserts around the windows, steep roofs to let the winter rains from the Atlantic roll off them, lace curtains in the windows, and carefully pruned flowers everywhere. 

Brittany always charms me.

By Ruth Paget - Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

Click here for:  Ruth Paget's Amazon Books



Laurent Paget Photography

Laurent Paget Photography