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Tuesday, September 18, 2018

Touring Pamplona and Bayonne, Spanish and French Basque Region Tourist Towns with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget

Touring Pamplona and Bayonne, Spanish and French Basque Region Tourist Towns with Savvy Mom Ruth Paget


My husband Laurent and I continued driving through the Pyrénées Mountains to the City of Pamplona in Spain made famous by Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises.

Pamplona is the seat of the Navarra Government and has many government buildings as well.  We had trouble finding a place to park.

Once we found a parking spot, the siesta was well underway.  Everything was closed except for the bar-restaurants in town. 

We found one with air-conditioning and ate there.  I ordered in the Spanish I had learned all by myself using books, reading a bilingual French-Spanish newspaper, and watching the European news and feature television program called Continentales on television.

I ordered beer for us along with ham and cheese sandwiches.  The bar was air-conditioned.  I really did not want to go out and do any touring, but Laurent finally insisted we get moving.

The streets in Pamplona have collapsible metal barriers built into them that were beneath the pavement.  When the Running of the Bulls happens during the Feast of Saint Fermin in July, these metal barriers are hauled up to protect the spectators.

I pretended to be a bull and chased Laurent through the streets.  I hope we did not wake anyone up from their siesta from laughing.

We stayed in Bayonne the next day, because it was raining.  We covered Florence up and walked to a Basque bookstore in the Petit Bayonne.  The salesman in the bookstore was reading a Basque newspaper when we came in.

While we were looking around, he greeted another customer in Basque and had a long conversation.  Once the conversation was over, I asked the salesman for some recommendations on Basque music.

I bought two cassettes of Basque church music, a Basque cookbook, and a copiously illustrated book about the Basque Country in English.

We ate a Basque restaurant called the Bar du Marché.  Our simple lunch was delicious – grilled fish with potatoes and salad followed by chocolate cake.

Laurent and Florence conked out at the hotel.  I took a long walk outside and was happy with my vacation.


By Ruth Paget, Author of Eating Soup with Chopsticks and Marrying France

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Ruth Paget Selfie